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Ready to spray

Make sure you have prepared the surface of your car first. Most suppliers provide you with a piece of specially coated poster board paper called a spray out card or test panel. Paint this card first to determine color match. There is nothing you can do once the automotive paint is on your car. You are ready to spray when all high quality solvents have been added to the paint to assure high performance. Avoid dry times, sanding times, flash times, or any other directions that may cause poor performance.

One part Acrylic Lacquer Primer

It is the easiest automotive paint to use. When you are ready to spray, shake it up and stir it with a paint stick. Strain it with a strainer right in to the gun cup, a recommended tip size is 1.4. Now create a slow build one coat at a time. Afterwards, wet sand with 600 water sand-paper.

2 part Urethane Primer

This is catalyzed automotive paint, so do not let it sit in the gun for too long. You should clean your paint gun immediately to prevent damage. Sand with 600 sandpaper. This automotive paint product has the best adhesion; a recommended tip size is 2.0. All solvent is added, with just a small amount of primer catalyst hardener provided. Mix this together in a separate plastic cup. Use 3 coats, and wait 10 minutes between each coat. It is best to wait over night to wet sand.

Urethane Base Coat

When ready to spray, shake the automotive paint up and stir with a paint stick. Stain it right into the gun cup. Put on 2-3 medium wet coats or until covered, waiting a flash time of 10-20 minutes between coats. One final mist coat can be applied to make the metallic appear more even. You should not solvent clean or sand in between coats of base coat color. This automotive paint product does require to be clear coated within 7 days.

Acrylic Lacquer Clear Coat

Wait one hour of base coat color to dry before applying this automotive paint. It is very easy to use. When you are ready to spray, again, shake it up and stir it with a paint stick. Strain it with a strainer right in to the gun cup. A recommended tip size is 1.4. Now create a slow build one coat at a time. It will take 4 medium wet coats with a flash time of 5-10 minutes between coats.

Acrylic Urethane Clear Coat

This automotive paint has the highest quality. It is catalyzed, so do not let it sit in the gun too long. Clean your paint gun immediately to prevent damage. All solvent is added, and just a small amount of clear coat catalyst hardener has been provided. Again, mix this together in a separate plastic cup. It has a 4-1 clear coat to clear hardener ratio. You can apply 2 wet coats allowing the first coat to flash off for 5-10 minutes. If you use a third coat, the flash times need to increase to 10-15 minutes. The dust free time is around 20 minutes, if you need to buff this clear you can wet sand with 1500 and polished after 24 hours, and before 48 hours has elapsed.

Much more information about Automotive Paint on this website. Check it out!

Our team of dedicated Market & Product Researchers from
All-Neon-Car-Lights.com, and including myself, have spent an
enormous amount of time & money installing interior car lights &
under car kits from a variety of manufacturers onto our test
vehicles, and as a result after all this testing, we can now
provide you with “Basic Generic Instructions” on how to
install these types of car lights on your vehicle. These
instructions have been designed with the “Novice” in mind.

We also found after this extensive testing was carried out, that
Plasmaglow had the best, all round car lighting products
available on the market today, outlasting and out-performing the
competition in every aspect. Hence the reason why we ended up
only recommending their products via the All-Neon-Car-Lights.com
website.

For some people, a car is a means of transport and nothing more.
As long as their vehicle gets them from point A to point B and
back again, has nice comfortable seats, a good sound system and
a coffee mug holder, it serves all of its purposes well. And of
course there are other drivers for which a car is much, much
more - an extension of their personality and an object of their
fixation. In this huge world of automotive accessories, there is
no product that screams louder than the LED under car lights and
assorted LED & Neon interior car lights. If you consider
cruising in your car as one of your favorite hobbies and you
relish the stares of pedestrians and fellow-motorists, then a Under Car Light Kit or
Interior LED Tube may be for you.

Please keep in mind that the main issues we face with having
neon or LED car lights on our vehicles these days is the fact
that they are often frowned upon by the authorities. So to avoid
any un-invited fines, its best to install neon & LED lights on a
car so as they can be activated through a separate switch rather
than having them come on when the headlights are turned on. To
do this, you can run a power wire directly from the car battery
to the kits operating switch, thus by-passing the vehicles
headlight wires.

Just in case you’re wondering about how to install other related
neon or led lights sold at All-Neon-Car-Lights.com, I can assure
you that the all the instructions that come with each of the
various kits are very easy to follow. They have been designed
with the do-it-yourselfer in mind. However, if you purchased a
kit from another supplier and you did not get any instructions
with it, and now you’re in need of specialized installation
advise, then please veiw our full Generic Instructions HERE - And if you still get stuck,
you are very welcome to contact us via our website, and we will
do our best to help you.

Neon accent tubes for the interior and exterior of cars has been
popular for a long time, and look great on nice cars and bikes -
however, the LED tubes have proven to be more reliable, much
brighter then neons and draw less power, therefore making them
the preffered option amounst most car lighting anthusiasts. But
it is entirly up to you what type of tubes you want to install,
both Neon & LED’s do the job just fine. Where ever you buy the
LED or neon light kits from, you should get a “cigarette
lighter” plug and Instructions with the kit in order to operate
the lights… but in some cases you may have to, or you may want
to, install them permantly by connecting the power and earth
wires of the kit directly into the wires on your car or bike.

However, where to exactly to do this and how to do it without
damaging the wiring or making a fire hazard are what’s on most
people minds before they attempt a project like this - so thats
why we wrote these instructions, to help out as many “first time
installers” get their kits up and “glowing” fast!.

So lets base these Generic Instructions on the
impression that you want to install them permanently - so what
you’ll need to do is, presuming you want to install Neon & LED
interior car Lights inside your car, is find where you want to
mount the tubes and keep their location in mind while doing the
wiring part of the installation, so as you can allow for the
correct length of the wires.

Please veiw the main body of these instructions by visiting:

How to Install Neon & LED Interior Car
Lights

Since I haven’t talked a lot about the ZL1 Corvette, I figured that I’d take an opportunity to chat about one of the meanest cars ever built by man kind, this car was most certainly at the top of the food chain as far as muscle cars and sports cars built in the USA during the 1960’s, well this one had a very short run at the end of the 1960’s, or in 1969, what I mean by short is there were only two of them ever built.

The ZL1 engine was conceived of to drag race the 1969 Camaro in the NHRA, and 69 ZL1 engines were put in to 1969 Camaro’s only, the NHRA had a rule, that if you wanted to race in the stock class, that the car that you raced had to be a factory production model, and to be a production car the manufacture had to build at least 50 of that particular model, thus the ZL1 Camaro was born.

But back to the task at hand, the 1969 ZL1 Corvette, this was probably the wildest production car ever built, the Zl1 engine was an all aluminum 427 CID big block Chevrolet, and this cut about 300 pounds off the weight of the car, so you can imagine what that would do for it’s ¼ mile times, the engine was rated from the factory at 430 hp, but actually made about 625 hp on the dyno, and a 1969 Corvette was around 3200 pounds, this would mean that the car was capable of about 11.18’s in the ¼ mile. In street dress, I don’t have a time with open exhaust and slicks on the car, but you could probably add about 1 second with a good driver.

This car was built to impress, and that it did, there were a white ZL1 and a yellow one built, in I think it was 1989, if I’m not mistaken, the government seized the yellow one in a drug raid, in which the owner went to prison, they proceeded to auction the car their estimated value of the car was $500,000, but they sold it for the minimum reserve of $300,000 to a very lucky winner, and the white one I’m not sure where it is, but it’s out there somewhere, now you hear the Ford guys and the Mopar guys tell you all the time, how their cars beat down the Chevy’s, but not this one boys.

• Muscle Car Information
• Classic Cars & Parts for sale
• Auto Shop Locator

I’ve been in the automotive business for about 20 or 25 years, I have worked in all facets of the industry, from parts to restoration, all different makes and models, I just want to keep people interested in the old cars because it’s where my heart is.

Thirty four years ago, in a book I wrote and was published, entitled, How To Settle Your Own Insurance Claim, I stated: “An eye witness can make or break your case. If you’ve been able to keep your wits about you the first thing you should do, immediately after impact has occurred, is to find somebody who observed it. After having spotted such a person, don’t be bashful. Go right over to them and ask if they saw the accident ? If they did, jot down their name, address and telephone number. Should they drive away before you can zero in on them, make note of their motor vehicle’s registration number so you can later obtain their name through the department of motor vehicle office.”

What I wrote, over thirty years ago, remains true today. (As a matter of fact, when it comes to insurance claims, little has changed over he past sixty years)! Companies like Rock Solid Insurance Corporation are still raising rates into the stratosphere while crying in their suds about all the money claims are costing them and those employed by them are still taking advantage of every motor vehicle accident victim they can sink their claws into.

A WITNESS CAN BE CRUCIAL: When you’ve been smashed into one of the most important sources of help - - when it comes to digging up information and assembling a record of the accident - - is the eye witness to that impact, with their accounts and recollections as to what happened. Try to secure a detailed written statement (or tape recorded or maybe even a video statement) from them. That “witness person” could be a passenger in your own or other vehicles, pedestrians, onlookers and bystanders at the scene of the accident, and/or driver’s of other motor vehicle’s who were not directly involve in the accident.

UTILIZING THE WITNESS: How do you actually go about the task of securing the relevant witnesses, testimonies and cooperation? To begin with, know this: It’s important that you get to a witness first - - before that a fast talking adjuster corners them and uses his expertise to twist the facts. By moving quickly you stand a good chance of getting the witness committed to your account of the events and/or to come down on your side of the case. If they do that’s money in the bank!

You should contact each witness of the accident (identified from the list of persons you compiled at the time of the accident - - or perhaps even discovered in the police report) and talk to them about what they saw, or know, concerning the accident. The ideal procedure is to get them to write out, in detail, what they observed, in their own words. If they’re not willing (or able) to do this, then write their statement yourself (or merely jot down on a pad) what each witness tells you, then have them sign and date it. Try to capture their recollections, impressions and observations of what happened.

Upon completing the interview of each witness, and taking his (or her) statement, ask that individual to read it. When they’re finished have them sign and date it, with their home address and phone number included. (If the statement is more than one page have them initial and date the bottom of each page, then ask them to apply their full and complete signature at the very end.)

You should make a copy of what they signed and send it to them. That’s so they’ll know exactly what they told you - - if, later on down the road, when the adjuster try’s to hustle and con them into stating something differently - - they’ll be able to stick to their guns because they’ll have written proof to show that adjuster exactly what they told you.

LOCATING A MISSING WITNESS: You may be unable to directly contact or locate the whereabouts of a witness whose name, home address or phone number you have obtained. (The witness may have moved). Here are two helpful steps you can take to locate a witness:

1. Send a “Certified” or “Registered” letter to that witness, addressed to his (or her) last known address with the “Return Receipt Requested” plus the “Address Only” box checked off. This way, if you receive back from the post office the return receipt signed by the witness, or executed by the post office, you should find, fully entered therein, the current address of the witness.

2. If you have their full name and address and you’re comfortable surfing through cyber-space there are dozens of ways to locate a person via your computer. Should you not be wise to the ways of the internet find somebody to help you who is.

IN SUMMARY: I spent most of my life investigating motor vehicle accidents. First as I worked my way through college as a Private Investigator, specifically assigned to motor vehicle accidents, next as a Special Investigator in the United States Navy, covering major military motor vehicle accidents in the mid-west, and then, after my naval daze, over thirty years as a Claims Adjuster, Supervisor, Manager and Trial Assistant. I know, from personal experience, a witness to a motor vehicle accident can be invaluable when it comes to making your case. Witnesses may be able to describe things in an accident that confirm what you know happened, thus backing up your side of the story. They may also provide you with information you were not aware of, which indicates how the other operator was at fault. A witness may have heard a verbal remark that someone other than you was at fault. Even a witness, who did not actually see your motor vehicle get crashed into, may have observed you, soon after impact, and confirm the pain and discomfort you were experiencing. A signed statement handed to Adjuster Hard-Nose, taken from somebody who did not know you personally, detailing the suffering you were enduring at the scene, right after you were bashed into, is even more money in the bank!

On that same subject of “Pain and Suffering” the adjuster might try to convince you that what a witness says is less important if what is being stated is coming from a friend or relative. Don’t you believe it! There are hundreds of thousands of motor vehicle insurance accident claims on record that prove this contention to be false. If a friend or relative actually saw the accident and what they observed proves you’re not at fault in any way, shape, manner or form (and/or can detail how much physical discomfort you displayed at the scene after impact) their value as a witness (on either issue) is worth its weight in gold. How much the “Pain and Suffering” you endured is worth can be discovered via THE BASE FORMULA contained within my latest book AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM (How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss) found at either http://www.caraccidentclaims.com or http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com.

Copyright (c) 2004 By Daniel G. Baldyga. All Rights Reserved

DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of this article THE EYEWITNESS TO YOUR GETTING CREAMED is to help people understand the motor vehicle accident claim process. Neither Dan Baldyga nor ARTICLECITY.Com make any guarantee of any kind whatsoever; NOR do they purport to engage in rendering any professional or legal service; NOR to substitute for a lawyer, an insurance adjuster. or claims consultant, or the like. Where such professional help is desired it is the INDIVIDUALS RESPONSIBILITY to obtain said services.

About The Author

Dan Baldyga

AUTO ACCIDENT PERSONAL INJURY INSURANCE CLAIM

(How To Evaluate And Settle Your Loss)

http://www.autoaccidentclaims.com

Dan Baldyga is now retired and spends his time writing articles to assist those who are involved in motor vehicle accident claims so they won’t be taken advantage of: dbpaw@comcast.net.

Do you need car security? This can be a tricky question, especially if you do not feel like paying for it right now! Of course, remember that paying a little bit for a some form of car security now can save you from having to pay a whole lot more in the future.

When a car thief sees that you have a form of car security, he or she will likely move onto an easier target.

There are many levels of car security, from steering wheel locks to high-tech alarms and immobilisers. When it comes to your own car security system, you really get a choice of which technology you want. There are aftermarket systems as well as pre-installed ones.

The three main types of car security systems are:

· Audible security systems. Such a system as this works by alerting the general public that someone without authority is trying to get into the vehicle. Yes, these are the annoying systems that you here beeping and screaming while you are trying to enjoy a peaceful meal at a restaurant. Of course, these days, the user can actually set the sensitivity of most modern audible security systems, lessening the chance of it going off for no reason. Oftentimes, the driver can know that the alarm has been set based off of double beep or flashing of the headlights. Most of these pre-installed car security systems also include a panic button which will set off the alarm when the user pushes a button on the key fob. The main problem with these systems is, of course, all the noise and potential for noise that they generate.

· Inaudible systems (private alert systems). These systems eliminate the horrible sounds by paging the owner electronically when or if there is a break-in. Of course, there are problems that can arise with this system. For one, the owner may be far away from the car and may not be able to get there in time. For another, if the owner can get there while the break-in is in progress, he or she might be in danger. In a sense, all that an inaudible system does is inform the owner that there is a problem, but it does not offer any solutions!

· Ignition system immobilizers. This is the one of the newest forms of car security system technology, and it may actually become mandatory in the production of future vehicles. Basically, ignition system immobilizers work by preventing the vehicle by being started by any one who as unauthorized access.

Of course, you do not necessarily have to choose between just one of these types of car security. Many cars come with a combination of them, like an immobilizer along with an audible security system (which is probably the most common combination). And you can always throw in a steering wheel lock (like The Club) for good measure.

It is a good idea to contact your car insurance company to see which car security they suggest. Oftentimes your insurance company will even offer discounts if you have a good security system.

The first thing that you should know when you want to buy a new car is that both you and the dealer are looking to get the better end of the deal. In this article, I’m going to show you how to walk away from the deal with both sides being satisfied.

A good deal is a win, win situation for both parties. Most of the time it is the buyer that leaves unsatisfied. In this day and age a car is no longer a luxury, but a necessity. You will likely have to purchase a new car more than once in your life, so you might as well learn to do it in a way that will make buying the cars less painful.

If you are looking to buy a car you should begin with these tips.

1. You should purchase your new car at or around Christmas time because with everybody buying their Christmas presents, not many of them are looking to buy a new car, and it forces dealerships to up their sales strategies. Salesmen are more willing to haggle down to your prices to close the deal.

2. You can also get a good deal from July to October because that is the time of year when dealerships are trying to get rid of their inventory to make way for the new models.

3. Purchasing a car online is becoming a great way to get a new car. Just wait for good rebates and incentives online and shop around. Print out your information from the best quotes and bring it to the dealer that you are most willing to work with. Bringing in lower quotes from another company might be your best bet in getting a good deal.

4. You should visit http://www.FightingChance.com if you are hoping to find new car prices, dealer incentives, and the best rebate offers. This site is the first place that you should go for great advice on buying a car. It’s even more informative than the Kelley Blue book. This program for buying new cars can literally save you thousands of dollars.

5. A good place to start when going into a dealership is to bring a copy of your credit score with you. It can lower your interest rates on your car loan. Your car dealer should not know more about you than you do.

6. You can avoid a common scam that dealerships pull. You will often hear that your financing fell through and that you have to respond by paying more money on your loan. Don’t believe it. It’s another reason for you to get a copy of your credit score.

7. Another common scam by dealership salesmen is for them to tell you that they have found you a lower rate, but that they want you to re-sign your loan papers. Usually, that is a downright lie. Once they pull up your financing information, they have the upper hand if you don’t know the details about your credit information. You can get a copy of your credit information online at http://www.equifax.com for about $10-$15. It’s better to pay $15 now than thousands later.

8. Don’t bring in a car for trade in if you still owe money on it. The dealership rarely pays the rest of the loan on time which will result in you having to pay a great deal of late fees to the bank. If you do decide to bring a car in that you owe money on, get it in writing from the dealership that they will pay the balance on the car within 10 days.

9. Sometimes a dealership may not have all of your options and must order the car directly from the dealership. If this happens they will often ask you to pay $500-$1000 for a deposit on the car. Try not to pay more than $500 and be sure to pay with a credit card because sometimes the dealership will tell you that there was a price increase on the vehicle and will want more money.

If you pay with a credit card you have room to dispute the amount being taken from you. If you pay by check, you can just consider the money gone.

10. You should never buy a car when you are in desperate need for one because a dealer will see that and take advantage. You should never wait until an old car is dead before searching for a new one because you should give yourself time to shop around for one and get the best deal possible. Desperation often clouds your judgment.

Mia LeCron is the founder of How-To-Buy-A-Car.info - http://www.how-to-buy-a-car.info - devoted to helping individuals buy the right car for them at the absoulute best possible prices.