World Of Hardware


How does a video card work?

A video card basically converts the computer’s digital signals coming from the processor into a signal that the monitor is able to interpret. Hence, its basic function is to convert data. The main point of difference between an entry level video card and a state-of-the art one is that the latter’s conversion speed is much better.

The Chips

The chip is the heart of the video card. It is where all the processing is done. It also makes 3D acceleration possible. The chip is to the video card, what the processor is to the computer. Of the two major chip manufacturers, ATI and NVIDIA, the former is well known for high quality and great technology.

Pipes

The information must travel through tunnels called ‘pipes’, before it can be converted. On one end it starts as raw data and ends up at the opposite end in a format that is compatible with the monitor. On its way, the data undergoes the conversion process. The greater the number of pipes, the more data that can be converted simultaneously.

The amount of data that a pipe can hold is called its Memory Interface. A pipe with a 128 bit interface can process more data than one with a 64 bit interface.

Memory

The memory is used to store temporary or transient information. Video information, being very data heavy, needs more memory. The two main types of memory are SDRAM and DDR RAM. DDR is superior as it can transmit information faster.

ATI Technology

An ATI card will offer many technologies that will significantly enhance your video experience. ATI’s cards are fully compatible with all the latest 3D technologies and do not rely on your computer’s CPU to process information, as do some of the entry-level cards.

SmartShader™

This technology will unleash a new generation of visual effects on your computer. Realistic graphics with breathtaking 3D effects are possible with SmartShader™. DVD movies can be viewed to better effect with it too.

SmartVision®

SmartVision® has the effect of removing jagged edges, improving the image, bringing its finer details to light.

Fullstream™

This is the latest technology in video processing, which is particularly for the Internet and video playback processing. It greatly improves the quality and performance of streaming video.

Logan writes about various topics. This article is free to re-print as long as nothing is changed, the bio remains, all hyper links remain intacked and the rel=”nofollow” tag isnt added to any links. Thank-You

My mother always told me to dust, but I never did, mostly because I was lazy, but also because I couldn’t find any tangible benefit to dusting. I just didn’t see how I’d benefit from my room or my things being less dusty. Well now I’ve gotten a bit older, and I finally found a reason to dust - a cooler running computer. I’m going to give some background on my own system and circumstances first, then run tests before and after dusting, as well as explain how and what I used to dust. Be sure to take a look at this article - with pictures and graphs - plus a whole lot more, at aworldofhelp.com.

I’ve had the computer in question for a little over two years, a dual AMD Athlon MP workstation that while no longer the top of the line, is still plenty fast enough for what I do. The computer is running at standard speeds and specifications, and has always been very stable - but not 100%. When the system was about a year old I had been getting by with the occasional, roughly once weekly lock up. At that point, I finally spent the time to try and diagnose the problem.

To be perfectly clear, I’m talking about a lock up, where everything stops responding, the screen freezes and I have to reboot, not simply an application crash, which I can usually just blame on Microsoft. My initial thought was that the computer was overheating, specifically the CPUs. I was a little hesitant though because I was running AMD retail processors at standard specifications with AMD retail heatsinks and fans, and I figured that should have been a fine setup. But I’ve had CPUs overheat before when I was sure that was the problem and this just felt like it now. I did some research online and it looked like the AMD cooling solutions were somewhat underwhelming performers, so I broke down and bought new heatsinks and fans. These still weren’t top of the line, but they reduced my CPU temperatures immediately by about 20%.

In unscientific testing I’d say my computer was absolutely more stable after the reduction in temperature. I estimate the weekly lockup became a monthly or even every other monthly lockup. This clearly isn’t perfect for a system that really should be 99.99% stable, but it was a big improvement, and I let the problem go for a while. I will note that as many of you many assume, this computer is always on, twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.

Anyway now it’s another year later and my computer is increasingly unstable again. I’m not going to go out and get better heatsinks and fans again, as I’m sure the improvement would be less than before. My next though was about how dusty the whole system is. I know I should have dusted it once in the last two years, but I never got around to it. I’d say I live in an average environment in terms of dustiness, not especially better or worse, and I just never thought it would make a very significant difference in my CPU temperature. As you’ll see, I was completely wrong - which incidentally might make my mother right.

Almost all users should really consider the results of both tests, possibly giving more weight to the one which most closely matches your typical computing. Even if you run predominantly business applications, you’ll almost certainly occasionally do something that falls under this content creation test, editing pictures or an occasional home movie, for example. So consider all the tests, don’t just focus on one graph.

Should you dust your computer? Yes, why not, it can’t hurt. But really, there are tangible benefits of cleaning your computer, even if it seems stable right now.

Computers and electronics in general don’t like heat. Dust blocks fans in your case, which generally cool you CPU, video card and motherboard components. Dust also blocks fans and their airflow into and out of your case. Cool air needs to be brought into a case, and then the host air dispelled. If the airways are blocked, system temperature can rise quickly. If your computer is stable but the CPU is running too hot, you cut down on its lifespan, potentially quickly.

More important to many people though, may be the result of that first heat related computer lock up. Even if it’s never been a problem before, if your computer crashes at the wrong time it can be catastrophic. Usually mine just locks up when I’m away from it, or overnight, and I just turn it back on and restart Firefox and haven’t lost anything important. But last week it locked up with unsaved graphs for my last article and Excel chose no to auto save. I spent the hour it took to redo them considering ways to eliminate these lock ups.

Of course, reducing heat is also always a priority for people who overclock their CPU. For those that don’t know, overclocking is running a CPU at a higher frequency than it was sold to run at. For example, you could take your Intel Pentium 4 that is running at a “clock” rate of 2 GHz, and try to run it at 2.1 GHz, 2.5 GHz, faster speeds, or anywhere in between. I have an old dual CPU system that was supposed to run at 366 MHz. Instead I ran the chips at 500 MHz each, which was a huge performance gain. Overclocking is actually a great way to get more “free” performance out of a system, as long as you can maintain stability. Usually the single biggest factor for success is reducing heat as much as possible.

Another thing to note is that while it is very important to keep CPU heat to a minimum, hard drives, video cards, and other components all need to be kept cool as well. In fact, I don’t really know for sure that my CPUs are the current problem. I think they are, but my next guess (if I’m correct that it’s a heat problem) would be my video card, since I’ve checked, and it runs really hot.

Consider this as well, if my CPU were to actually stop working because it was too hot, it would probably be a gradual process, and I could fix the situation by purchasing a replacement. If my hard drive crashes and ultimately loses data, that could be a much more problematic situation. I could replace the drive, but recovering the data could be far more difficult than just replacing a CPU.

I opened up the system and saw more dust than computer. All the fans were covered in dust, and their airflow was totally blocked. I put the case back on and took temperature readings of my computer both idle and when working. The tests are all run are on the following system:

CPU - Dual AMD Athlon MP 2000+ (1.67 GHz)
Motherboard - AMD K7-D
RAM - 1024 MB RAM (2 x 512 MB registered DDR 2100)
Video Card - Matrox Parhelia AGP 128 MB
HD - Segate 5400 rpm- st320410a
Windows XP SP2

I picked that unexciting hard drive because it was the only one I had that reports temperature.

For the idle readings the computer was freshly booted into Windows. To get the computer running at full load I ran two instances of Prime95, a math application that will max out a CPU (2 copies running, one each for 2 CPUs), and copied 2 GB of Music on the hard drive to another folder on the same drive. The entire process took about half an hour.

Without anything to compare them to, those numbers for the most part aren’t terribly interesting. My only reaction was that 63 degrees Celsius seems pretty hot, and the idle CPU temperatures aren’t too wonderful either. Remember, each CPU type has a different recommended temperature range. 63 degrees may be too hot for mine, but could be either acceptable, or perhaps way too hot for your own. Regardless, you hopefully will notice a relative reduction in temperature after dusting.

Dusting the computer

As I said, I’ve never dusted a computer before, but I came up with what ended up being a reasonable plan. I bought compressed air and a small brush from staples for $7 total and used a rag I have here. I made sure to unplug my computer, grounded myself to discharge static electricity by touching something metal other than my computer, opened up the case and was ready to go.

As long as you make sure your computer is unplugged, don’t get anything wet, and are gentle while you have it opened, you really shouldn’t damage anything. For the most part, the inside of your computer is delicate, but it isn’t brittle. The most notable exception is your CPU. If you were to disconnect it and pull it out of the motherboard you would expose pins on the bottom that are in fact extremely delicate.

You could do a really thorough job by taking everything apart and getting all the dust out, but I didn’t want to spend that much time doing it and I figured if I left everything connected their was less chance I’d mess something up. So I used the air, brush and rag and got the dust off the computer, taking the most time to clean the fans and the holes they blow out of.

I ran the same tests again, and the results were dramatic.

Idle, CPU 1 saw an 18% reduction in temperature, while CPU 2 is 10% cooler. That’s very important, as all those hours my computer is sitting doing very little it’s going to be considerably cooler.

At full load, CPU 1 is 21% cooler and CPU 2 is 12% cooler. These are again very impressive results, and very important as well. I have had lock ups when video encoding and doing other CPU intensive tasks, and now the chips should be running cooler while doing those.

It’s interesting that originally CPU 1 was hotter than CPU 2, and after the cleaning they switched. An important fact is that the temperature reporting on this type of dual AMD Athlon system is generally uneven. That said, CPU 1 was easier to dust around because the DVD drives were in the way of CPU 2, so I probably did a better job cleaning the former and there is still likely room for improvement in cooling the latter.

One other note, I kept track of the fan speeds before and after cleaning, and I saw about a 2% increase in the CPU fan speeds after I dusted. I wasn’t expecting this at all, and certainly can’t be certain that this will always result from dusting, but it could be very interesting for overclockers trying to eak out every last bit of fan performance.

The hard drive temperature saw a 9% improvement while idle after dusting, and again a 9% improvement at full load. It’s a nice temperature reduction for a mechanical component that will be grinding away for thousands of hours over the life of your computer.

The case temperature stayed the same throughout all the tests.

Conclusion

All in all I was surprised the results were so dramatic. I expected few degrees for the CPUs and maybe one for the hard drive, but to see a 20% reduction in temperature is just great. There is defiantly room for improvement as well. The CPU fans have covers that I could have taken off and gotten more dust out, and as I mentioned reaching one of the CPUs was harder than the other. Further, I’d say I got most of the dust inside my computer, well over 90%, but I still saw some that proved more challenging to clean that I was willing to bother with. Taking all the cards out and thoroughly cleaning the whole system would have no doubt led to even better results.

My system has maintained the cooler temperatures so far, a week after the cleaning, and I haven’t had a lock up since. I can’t be certain I’ve solved the lock up problem, but it does appear I have for now. At the very least, I can be sure CPU heat is not the problem, as now they are running at very acceptable temperatures. Your own results will vary, and may not be as dramatic if your computer wasn’t as dusty as mine. Regardless, you should see some reduction in component temperature after cleaning your system.

All in all I recommend you take a look around and inside your computer to see how it looks. If it’s dusty, $7 and an hour of your time seems like a good investment to increase the life of your computer and prevent system lock ups. I suspect many people suffer the occasional heat caused lock up, it just isn’t obvious what the problem is, and they don’t occur often enough to be a serious concern. But remember, even if you only have one heat caused lock up in the entire life of your computer, it could come at the worst time, or cause permanent damage.

Steve Perlow is the founder of aworldofhelp.com, where you can find the aworldofhelp Top Picks in desktop and notebook systems. Visit aworldofhelp.com to get answers from real people to your questions about technology, travel and more.

We’ve all been there. You’re in the middle of printing out an important document and your printer suddenly stops. It’s the dreaded “out of ink” message. So you pull your backup ink cartridges out of your desk drawer and replace them. Wishful thinking, right?

Most of us just don’t plan ahead — no matter how many times this has happened to us. When we buy ink cartridges, we tend to just get one set of black and color cartridges. The cost of ink is so high that buying more than one set is just too expensive for most consumers. Thankfully, there are less expensive options out there – and you don’t have to sacrifice quality.

Option 1 – Avoid Staples, Best Buy, and other large retailers altogether. You’re never going to get a good deal on ink cartridges since they only sell name brand replacements. Instead, do your homework on the internet. There are many reputable websites out there that charge up to 80% less for cartridges.

How is that possible? Rather than selling name brand replacements, online ink retailers sell compatible and remanufactured cartridges. There cartridges are technically just as good as the originals, and can be purchased for half as much money. As an added precaution, however, we recommend buying ink cartridges at sites that offer 100% guarantees. In the online world, you never know what you’re getting. My advice — run a search on Yahoo for “ink cartridges.” Visit the first 5 sites. Find the web site that offers the best prices, lowest shipping costs, and a 100% guarantee.

Option 2 – Refill your ink cartridges. It’s not as bad as you might think. And best of all, this is definitely the cheapest way to go. You can fill your ink cartridges up to 10 times with a single ink refill kit. There is obviously some work to this. You basically use a syringe to inject ink back into your original cartridges. If you do this correctly, this is no spillage, and you’ll be up in running in no time. It takes a bit of practice to master the art of refilling ink cartridges. Don’t get discouraged if it takes a couple of tries before you get it down.

Bill Smith is a printer expert who has specialized in ink cartridges and refill solutions for over 5 years. Visit his site at http://www.buythebestbuy.com.

PC cooling systems are one of the hottest - and coolest - computer hardware accessories avaliable. Most computers, however, still do not come with a cooling system more advanced than the typical heat sink and cpu fan. Some computers, however, are being sold with liquid cooling systems, such as the Apple G5 Power Mac. The dual processors undoubtedly put out a great deal of excess heat that a simple copper heat sink and fan alone can not properly dissipate. Intel is also getting into the new cooling trend, claiming that it’s newest processors (of the Pentium 4 line) are approximately 20 degrees hotter than any chip currently produced by AMD (Advanced Micro Devices).

Although these new processors all but absolutely require high-end cooling systems, it may not be a bad idea to add an additional cooling system to your 1-3 year old system. Your heatsink and fan can probably handle the heat, but the additional cooling can’t hurt. Here are some popular options if you are looking to add a new cooling system to your computer:

- Water cooling system. Several companies currently offer both external and internal liquid systems that can efficiently cool a wide range of processors, whether you have a P4, or a late AMD processor such as the K7 or K8. Some come with a nifty control panel that shows the processor temperature and speed of the fan.

- Memory cooling system. CPU’s are not the only hardware component that becomes dangerously hot during prolonged computer usage. Your memory cards can also produce a large amount of heat. To combat this, there are memory heat spreaders avaliable to dissipate RAM heat. The aluminum bars attach to the RAM module, providing an outlet for the heat - working much like a CPU heatsink.

- Heavy-duty fan system. Fans are not at all out of the cooling picture. Replacing the ordinary manufactures fan with a custom model can be beneficial to your CPU’s performance. There are many new fan-type cooling systems avaliable, including some that blow air powerfully around the heat sink, much a like a miniture jet engine.

There are quite a lot of options when it comes to properly cooling your PC. The process of setting up just the right cooling system for you can be fun and rewarding. Chances are fairly good that if your computer is less than 3 years old, it could benefit immensly from improved cooling and ventilation.

Looking to buy cooling equiptment? Try these companies (Thermaltake, Coolermaster, Zalman, Swiftech)

Bradley James is a senior editor at SciNet.cc, a website containing many helpful consumer electronics review articles. For more information on computer cooling technology, please visit our Computer Cooling Systems webpage.

First a little history….
In 1938, the first invention that would lead to the laser printer and toner cartridge was patented. The process, knows as “electro photography”, used a dry printing method, not that different than today’s laser printer. It was 1948, however, before the commercial application of electro photography because available.

In 1959, the first automatic reproduction machine, the Xerox 914, which used a dry printing process. In 1978, the fine tuned technology was applied to the computer printing needs of business and private citizens. Physically large and with a large price tag as well, the Xerox 9700 laser printer that used a toner cartridge wasn’t affordable by individuals except the wealthy.

Everything changed in 1984 when Hewlett Packard began to market the “LaserJet” printer. This printer came with a replaceable toner cartridge that was not difficult to change, although it could sometimes bit a little messy. The really problematic part was that people who used the LaserJet had stacks of expensive but empty toners stacked in the storage room or wherever they could find to store the toner cartridges.

This problem was quickly resolved by environmentally aware designers by re-manufacturing the laser toner cartridge. This significantly reduced the cost of using laser printers.

What’s happening today?….
Nowadays we have the luxury of having a laser printer on our desk at home if we want that type of printing. The as well as the initial outlay for the printer has become quite affordable and provides a unique, very professional looking print out.

Today, laser printers are manufactured by many companies and the price tag is only slightly more than the common ink printer (though colour laser printers are still quite expensive the gap is getting smaller). The laser toner cartridge costs have been reduced so that it is reasonable to use the laser printer at home as well as at the office. In fact the toners are usually much cheaper when you take into account the larger number of pages you get for the amount you pay (the industry uses the terminology ‘cents per page’ or CPP)

Basically there are 2 types of cartridges, originals and non-originals and there are 2 types of non-originals being compatibles and remanufactured (this goes for inks also as does the information below). Otherwise known as non genuine, after market this is how they work:-

- Compatibles are actually a brand new cartridge manufactured to work in the same way (without breaking the trademark, copy protection laws) as the same original cartridge with the same machines. The benefit you gain from these is obviously cost savings with at times massive savings up to around 50%. The downside is they are not as environmentally friendly as remanufactured toners and there are the occasional failures and complaints about lower quality (though failure rates for the top companies making these are within industry norms and not significantly higher than those of the original manufacturers themselves)
- Remanufactured toners however are a little different as they take an empty original (it should have only been used ONCE) and fill it with toner. As long as you buy from a reputable retailer it will have also been checked to determine if parts need to be replaced as well as toner refilled. You also get good cost savings as you do with compatibles but the environment wins out big time as you helping ‘close the loop’ by reusing an empty original. Once again the same applies as above with quality and failures (both negligible in my experience as a retailer in this industry).

NOTE: Its worth making a special note here that disposing of empty toners is a problem worldwide as the plastic they’re made of takes so long to break down and the toxicity of the toner inside. In many countries today there are programs available where you can get rid of your empties without just throwing them in the bin. In fact if you hunt around you’ll probably find a company will pay you for them as they need a constant stream of empties coming through so they can remanufacture them.

Something to keep in mind….
When purchasing a re-manufactured laser toner cartridge, be sure to read the box carefully and ensure you are selecting the right toner cartridge. The first time you purchase a re-manufactured toner cartridge, the box may look entirely different or very plain because these inexpensive toners are often not packaged in fancy, colourful boxes like the name brands. But then they don’t cost what the name brand toners do, either.

The bottom line….
If you use a reputable retailer for your home/office supplies they should have a clear policy in place not only about faulty toners but what happens if a cartridge has somehow caused damage to your machine (this would be very unusual by the way). Under these circumstances this policy should give you a full warranty to have the equipment repaired ASAP at no cost to you.

With my clients when they ask what I suggest I always recommend they try a non-original to see for themselves the quality etc. In any case the trick is to be able to make an informed choice with someone you trust so at least if something goes wrong the people you bought from haven’t skipped the country.

Andrew James runs an successful online business based in Melbourne, Australia and regularly writes articles for the benefit of his clients and others.

The Cartridge Specialists

www.cartridgespecialists.com.au

info@cartridgespecialists.com.au

Effectively everybody wants the hottest and best cheap cell phones nextel, cheap cell phones in canada, cheap cell phones only when they are shown on TV. Also, there are various means of personalizing the phone to suit everybody. We grant you with a immense choice of mobile phones and accessories on the market at the moment to mind of all your cell phone requirements. The telephone is a personal phone which obtains or broadcasts messages through a Communications network.

Radio waves maybe employed to shift signals from and to the phone. Both communications network holds a range of 3 to 5 miles and intersections further network. A lot of these cell site can be attached to Cheap Cellular Phone Accessories, Cheap Cell Phones Without A Plan, Cheap Cellular Phone Plans and that can detect the force of the signal received from the cellphone. When the cell phone owner roams from one network area to a second, these phone exchange instantly controls the mobile phone and a network with a more potent signal (from the telephone) how to go to a latest radiocommunication channel.

Ages ago, cellphones were moderately worse than the modern types, and several were contrived for long run installation in cars, or as “portable” cellphones the same size as a briefcase. As software bettered in the early 1990s, the more unfit “bricks” vanished and tiny hand held cells became normal. Within virtually all of Europe, moneyed areas of Mainland China, cells are pretty much universal, either with the majority of adults possessing a phone.

Cell Phone

What you will need:

1. A Phillips screw driver
2. Panel tools
3. Pick tools
4. Drop light
5. Wire ties
6. Electrical tape
7. Wire cutters
8. Crimpers
9. Drop cloths

Note: Remove the old stereo before you begin!

More Notes:

You will need to disconnect your battery because you do not want to lose power when you are installing the speakers. It can also prevent injury in the process.

Take out all the hardware that came in the box.

You will need to disassemble your factory speakers. Instructions for dissembling your factory speakers should come in the manual that came with your car. If you do not find this manual, I would suggest calling the manufacturing.

Steps:

o To start, you will need the flat head screwdriver. With this tool you can unscrew your old screws that are holding up your old factory speakers.
o You will need to pull the wires from the cigarette lighter. It will help you install the other speakers.
o Connect the wire to the cigarette lighter.
o You will need to turn on the ignition and then select the wire that is underneath the dash.
o Stick the light tester into the ignition source. Light should turn on.
o Now you will need to look for the electrical lead that is coming from the stereo. This lead powers one of the stereos. You will then wrap the lead with a black electric tape so that it does not touch the metal surface.

© 2006 by Sebastian Schneider. If you want to know more about anything related to car audio, visit Car Sound Systems.

When it comes to accessories for computers there are many things that fall under this category. Some of these accessories are necessary for your computer to work property, while others are just for pure enjoyment. You start with your fundamentals which are your keyboard, mouse and the basic software needed for your requirements. There are many types of software that is available for computers so you need to make sure that you are installing software that is compatible with your system.

A few of the more common accessories for computers would be printers, scanners, speakers, headsets and microphones. Speakers are essential if you want to enjoy all the benefits your computer has to offer, such as listening to great music while working or surfing the web. Microphones are the key to holding conversations with friends and family or recording messages on your computer. Headsets come in very handy when you don’t want to disturb other members of the family while enjoying music and games on your computer.

If you are not completely satisfied with the sound system that is originally installed in your computer, then you can improve your sound system with audio cards that can be installed to make you feel like you are listening to a high powered stereo system. This is a great accessory for the music lover. There are even additionally speakers, bass and more you can purchase for your PC.

An accessory for computers that is growing rapidly in popularity is web cams. They can be used for a number of different reasons, everything from conference meetings to talking to your family. You can purchase webcams that produce either still or video pictures. If you travel a lot with your job, or for other reasons this is a great way to stay in touch with the loved ones waiting for you at home.

For those of you that would like a little more freedom with your computers, then the wireless mouse and keyboard would be for you. This allows you to be free from tangling wires and the freedom to move around. It produces a new and exciting way to use your computer.

Adding extra protection to your computer to help shield your hard drive is also a great idea in case the one that comes on your computer failed for some reason. Computers do crash sometimes and this can cause some serious problems especially for the person who keeps a lot of important information on their computers. When it comes to accessories for your computers this one can’t be beat for saving you time and money.

Christian Tylor is a freelance publisher based in Atlanta, Georgia. He publishes articles and reports in various ezines and provides computer and software resources at FreeNetPublishing.com

With all the different models of iPod, which one should I buy?

Models to choose from are iPod Shuffle 512MB or 1GB, iPod Nano 1GB, 2GB or 4GB or iPod, also called video iPod, 30GB or 60GB. If you want to buy second hand there is the earlier models like iPod Photo, iPod mini and 1st, 2nd 3rd and 4th generation iPods. There are shops that still sell some of the older models too.

Which one to buy depends on budget, requirements and personal taste. First you
need to know how you want to use it, and how much music you want to be able to
have on you.

A lot of people are quite happy to play one or two albums over and over again on a
day. If I were one of these people I would get an iPod Shuffle. They are the cheapest
Apple iPod and even the 512MB model will still store say 10 Albums. The iPod
shuffle is the only iPod that does not have the dock connector. So if you plan on
connecting a accessory, you probably want to have an iPod Nano. Further, the iPod
Shuffle is the only Apple iPod that does not have a display.

The iPod Nano is an incredibly thin iPod. It comes in 1GB, 2GB or 4GB capacity,
which is enough for a lot of people. It does not play video, but does show your
photographs. If you want an iPod that you can always wear on you then the Apple
iPod Nano is your thing.

If you are like me, and listen to many different kinds of music and like constantly
listen to new music, get the 30GB or 60GB iPod if you can afford it. 60GB means you
can store a few thousand music Albums, and some video’s. Keep in mind that
video’s take up a lot more storage than music files.

To date this is the only iPod that reproduces video, which is why they call it the
Video iPod.

Before buying the model that you like, think about how you are going to use it.
There are also many accessories available for your every iPod. You can get a skin,
cases, cover, pouch, charger, speaker system, dock (to connect to your stereo), FM
transmitter (to receive iPod on your radio), all sorts of headphones, cables, car
adapter, battery and 3rd party iPod software, and so on.

Further I would like to encourage you not to download mp3 music for free of
filesharing networks as most is illegal music. For free music downloads subscribe to
podcasts using Apple iTunes. There is a wide variety of music genres available for
free, and legal.

As far as I know there are no iPod games available other than the standard iPod
games that come built in.

Jacco Noordhuizen
iPodShoppers - Europe’s prime online iPod store with worldwide shipping
Please visit our website: http://www.ipodshoppers.com

Crystal are use to keep the frequency of the clock from drifting. If the signal from this clock stops, or is weak, or the pulses begin to vary, the electronic equipments might show intermittent faults or might stop altogether. The microprocessor pins that hold the crystal are usually called OSC IN and OSC OUT as shown in Figure 1 and the frequency is marked on the crystal. Typical examples of crystal oscillator frequency are 3.58MHZ, 4MHZ, 8MHZ, 24MHZ etc.

Testing Crystal
Crystals are quite fragile components because of their construction. Unlike a resistor or capacitor, if you drop one on the ground from a decent height, its 50-50 bet whether it will work again. Testing the crystal is not a breeze either. You cannot just take out your trusty multimeter and plug the crystal in it. In fact, there are three right ways to test a crystal: -

(a) Using Oscilloscope
A crystal produces a sine wave when excited. It is appropriate then, to see a waveform representative of a sine wave on the clock pins. If the clock is not functioning properly, replace the crystal. In most cases this should solve the problem since microprocessors are usually very reliable. Check the crystal with power on.

(b) Frequency Counter
Frequency Counter can be use to check the frequency of the crystal. The reading must be taken when the equipment power is switch “on”. Place the probe of frequency counter to the crystal pin and read the measurement. Be sure that your frequency counter meter has the range that is higher than the crystal frequency you are measuring.

(c) Crystal Checker
With this method, usually the crystal is placed in the feedback network of a transistor oscillator. If it oscillates and the LED is lighten up, this mean that the crystal is working. If the crystal doesn’t work, the LED stays off. Instead of using LED, some other crystal checker uses a panel meter to indicate if the crystal is working or not.

Jestine Yong is a electronic repairer and writer. For more information about electronic repair please visit his website at http://www.noahtec.com

« Previous PageNext Page »